Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves & Remarkable Riders (Amazing Stories)

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Review

“So accessible and diverting.”
The Times Literary Supplement

From the Inside Flap

HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world… The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: “Don’t let go!”, and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED’S LEFT

Ed barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?

From the Back Cover

This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are stories of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with accounts of perfect breaks and beautiful beaches.

Immerse yourself in the legends of surfing like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip.

Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill, a surfing pioneer. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of the UK, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.

Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike.

About the Author

Alex Wade is a writer, freelance journalist, media lawyer and lecturer. As well as running the Surf Nation blog, Alex has edited and/or contributed columns and features for many national newspapers and magazines including The Times, The Sunday Times, The Guardian, The Observer, The Independent titles, the FT, The Telegraph, Huck, Wavelength, The Surfer’s Path, Flush, Coast and Cornwall Today. In 2009, Alex was short-listed as Sports Feature Writer of the Year in the Sports Journalists’ Association’s awards and he has sat on various occasions as a judge for Coast’s annual awards. He was the first UK writer to cover surfing in serious depth for a national newspaper. Alex has travelled the globe extensively in search of the biggest waves and best breaks. He has written about surf breaks from Hawaii and Costa Rica to France and Portugal. Despite a restless life he thinks he has found paradise in West Penwith, Cornwall, UK, where he surfs all year round.